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From Iran today, to Mr. Obama, on the passage of health care reform:

Dear mr president, my friend (my chosen president)

i congratulate you for passage of health care bill / thank you for a
tremendous hard work that you did. without your hardest work this was
not possible/ thank you, thank you.
(i am sorry i could not write you directly, so i am asking my friend
to send it to you)
you are the only president on the face of earth who is working hard to
keep your promises.
thank you again
we love you

From Iran today:

March 16, 2010 Shiraz is ALIVE!!!!

This is the BEST Chaharshanbeh Soori I have ever experienced! Our city was alive tonight with the sounds of music, laughter and fireworks! And even though it is illegal now to build bonfires on the roads, people were building fires in the joobes (open drains) and in the dirt on the sidewalks and jumping over them. Our neighborhood is still partying and it’s WAY past midnight. Girls and guys are dancing and mingling. The impromptu fireworks displays are beautiful!

Our evening started at 7 pm when the kids, hubs and I went out to our apartment complex field and started the fires and fireworks. All the complex kids followed us with their goodies and the evening festivities began! We had strict rules – no throwing firecrackers under peoples’ feet. We also had a first aid kit and a fire extinguisher handy. Everyone had fun. Lots of people joined us and we had an awesome display. Other people in the neighborhood had their own festivities. People were setting off fireworks from their roofs and balconies. From the hills we could see the city of Shiraz below. The fireworks lighting the sky were brilliant! Sounds of firecrackers and music came from all over the city.

At 9 pm we bid adieu and headed for a party we were invited to. The people in our complex were just warming up!  We drove all the way to X. Along the way we saw fire engines at the ready and plenty of security forces. But the robocops did not seem to be out – at least in our area. Fireworks were going off all around the security personnel. They just stood there – and laughed at particularly loud ones!

We reached the garden where we were invited and spent an evening with friends eating and drinking and jumping over yet more fires (and lighting even more fireworks). It was relaxing and enjoyable and great fun. People of every age were there. On the way to and from the party we saw many people celebrating on the sides of the roads. And some of the young people were sitting on their car doors as they drove down X, dancing to music along the way. Tonight, the people of Shiraz were having a GREAT time, despite all the warnings! It’s past 1 am and the neighborhood disco is still going! I am turning out the lights for now to sweet dreams.

From Iran today:

March 15, 2010 Warnings against celebrating the fire festivities

My son reported that at school a 25 year-old Basiji came and spoke with the kids about the dangers of celebrating Chaharshanbeh Soori – the fires and fireworks. He said the guy made the kids feel bad about celebrating. Another kid I spoke with said the same happened in his school. However, it seems many people are not paying attention to the warnings. We invited a school mate over the same day the kids had their talk and the school mate said he couldn’t come over because his school service (cab) driver was taking all the boys out to but fireworks! So much for towing the party line! Unless they figure out quickly how to get the cooperation of everyone, this gum’t has lost the war.

My sig other was at the store down the street when an old man told him that this gum’t had really messed this celebration up. He said that in the past Chaharshanbeh Soori was a fun but quiet celebration where people would get together and build bonfires in their neighborhoods, jump a bit and it was over. But NO the mullahs had to go and build a fireworks factory in Iran and ban bonfires! He blamed these guys for bringing all the fireworks and dangers upon themselves.

From Iran today:

March 14, 2010 Let me Explain

Chahar Shanbeh Soori takes place the Wednesday eve before the Iranian new year, or No Ruz. I don’t know how Zoroastrians celebrate it, but the rest of us Iranians usually get together with friends, party, light off firecrackers and light up numerous bonfires that we then proceed to jump over. When we jump over the fires we say, “Zardieh man az toh, sorkhieh toh az man.” (which means something like – all my yellowness (impurities) to you, and all your redness (clean, freshness) to me). It is symbolic of purifying oneself of the junk of the old year and entering the new year clean and pure.

In the past few years this particular celebration has gotten out of hand. The firecrackers are literally deafening. People get limbs burned and blown off. Houses catch fire (the usual where firecrackers are used). The atmosphere has also in the recent few years reflected the dissatisfaction and protests of the youth. About five years ago Chamran Blvd looked like a war zone. A police car was set on fire there and it was out of control. The very next year the authorities clamped down and made this ceremony illegal on main thoroughfares. We have had three years of tough laws and LOTS of security personnel out on the streets the days leading up to the ceremony.

This year is even tougher. I read on one website that a government official explained that their goal was to eliminate this ceremony from the Iranian scene within the next two years. See, it’s talk like that that gets them into trouble. This ceremony is a very old, cultural ceremony. When I was a kid we used to get together in our neighborhoods and jump over fires. It was fun – but not a big deal. We’d hear firecrackers. We had a great time. A few years ago they made it illegal to light fires on the asphalt – an attempt to eliminate the ceremony by making it impossible for people to light fires in their neighborhoods and do their thing. So, people moved out of the neighborhood and lit many more (and louder) firecrackers, because they weren’t allowed to light fires anymore. It is really twisted now frankly.

But the fact that government officials talk about the total elimination of this ceremony gets people all riled up. They see it not as a safety issue, but as yet another assault on their cultural heritage by this totalitarian pseudo-Islamic regime! Many people say, “We have one night of shadi (festivity) and this government wants to take it away from us.” I certainly understand the safety issues. I lived in the US when they went through a similar analysis and made free wheeling fireworks illegal – now one has to get a permit. But I think they did it in a much more reasonable manner. The government officials said they that while they did not want to eliminate the New Years tradition, they did want to make it safer. And so you have to get a permit to light certain types of fireworks there. Here, in Iran, on the other hand, they have stated that they want to eliminate the tradition completely as it isn’t Islamic.  Ayatollah Khamenei even went so far as to declare it Haraam (religiously unclean) this year. Well, frankly, that makes people resist.  Although Ayatollah Makarem-Shirazi turned around and declared that it was religiously ok for people to celebrate.

I have heard firecrackers go off every day and night now for the past week and a half. It is music to my ears.  Everyone I know plans on jumping over bonfires on Tuesday night. But the government is flexing it muscles. Just yesterday I was out with a friend at Afifabad (the “IN” place for young people to hang out these days.) There was a heavy police presence as usual. But somehow it felt different to me. I felt tension in the air. Then I heard sirens and saw two cop cars drive quickly down the street – one filled with young men and the other with women. They were telling people to get out of the way. A cabbie I spoke with later said that he had observed similar incidents lately. He said the government was picking up the youth and keeping them in prison until after Chaharshanbeh Soori to prevent them from celebrating. A short time later that night I saw Sepah officers and eventually military clothed personnel on the street. So I guess it wasn’t my imagination. It is tense this year – particularly after the summer of discontent we have had here! Nothing is calm. Nothing is normal. Tension fills the air.

From Iran today:

March 11, 2010 What do we do with all the graffiti?

Cities around Iran try to do a bit of spring cleaning and get their cities beautified in preparation for all the No Ruz travelers this time of year. Our cities really do put on a fresh face. It’s great. However, this year we have the problem of political graffiti. What to do about that? I’ve seen where they have attempted to remove it and have given up. Only the strong stone walls seem to be able to withstand the pressure hoses. Painting over them does not eliminate them. So, many attempts have been abandoned. Recently they have tried covering up the graffiti with murals. But you can’t do that with every wall – especially private walls. And then they only get the graffiti they can see from the cars. When I went for a walk the other day I saw lots of fresh graffiti – all at angles the cops can’t see when they are on the prowl. But it is fresh and it is there and the PEOPLE are NOT erasing them!

My sig other saw graffiti on a university bathroom stall. One said nasty things about AN’s mother and the other said, “Marg bar mah ke goftim marg bar shah!” (Death to us who said death to the shah).

From Iran today:

March 8, 2010 Chahar Shanbeh Soori is Getting Close – Let’s stamp it out!

I drove my parents to the airport today. They will be in the U.S. for over a month. Lucky them! They get to breathe freely for awhile!

On our way to the airport we drove along the Dry Riverbed Highway. Street cleaners were busy gathering broken branches, boxes and anything flammable and burning them along the river. My mom commented (something to the effect), “So, they are doing their darnedest to make sure no one burns bonfires this year!”

As I was waiting for my parents to take off I had the chance to talk with someone who lives in the Shaheh Cheragh (mosque) area. He said the other day the neighborhood Basijis came to his door with a calendar and flowers and something else as a friendly (PR) gesture from the local Basijis. Sheesh! As if ANYONE will EVER forget what they are REALLY all about. I asked this person if he would ever forget what had happened to the people at the hands of the Basijis this summer and he said, “No.”

They haven’t come around to the homes in my area – but then again I heard that our neighborhood was one of the only ones in Shiraz shouting Allah-u-Akbar on February 11! (22 of Bahman). I guess we are a lost cause.

From Iran today:

March 3, 2010 Not Much Going On, But A lot Going On

A second person I am personally aware of, who was imprisoned for 2 years around 1367, was summoned for questioning.  The two who were questioned were asked to fill in a lot of personal information on a form including who they regularly hang out with and what those persons’ views and beliefs are.  They were also asked to provide updated pictures. They were questioned by people beind a two-way mirror. Both thought that it seemed the gum’t is attempting to update their political dissident files. Since they take pictures of everyone in the protests, it seems they are updating records to be able to pick out the Green (anti-gum’t) Protestors.

One school principal relayed how tough it is on the teachers this year. He said that they get called in to the office for every slip of the tongue. They have been told to report families whose children speak “Green”. He also said that the schools get harassed for any music they play – but they still push ahead.

A preschool I am close to said that they have been instructed to speak about the 12th Imam (Mahdi) on Teachers’ Day at the end of the school year to the kids! The head there said, “What am I supposed to tell a 3 year old about the coming Mahdi!?” It seems Ahmadinejad and his group are trying to hasten the End Times and the coming of the Mahdi is a required event!

In the past 2 days three different people from 3 walks of life have asked me my religion. When I respond that until there is freedom of religion in Iran and all Iranians can freely express their beliefs without fear, I refuse to answer that question – these people have promptly told me that while they call themselves Muslim, they do not pray, fast or believe in heaven or hell at all. And then they continue their conversation with me. Theses three are 25, 35 and a bit older respectively – all children of the revolution.

One cab driver who signed up for an election-promise house and voted for the “correct” candidate told me that they have since been told that the apartment promised was promised illegally and that they would not be receiving an apartment after all. He said he has observed that some very well connected people have however, received apartments through this scheme although he has not.

From Iran today:

February 11, 2010 Drive to Tehran

On our drive to Tehran for the long weekend I tried to SMS a friend who lives there. There was no texting capability. As we entered the city around 11:30 at night there was not a single sign of security anywhere to be seen. I guess they need to eat and rest before the big day.

Our hosts said that a few young people went out on the rooftops in the Yousef Abad area to yell “Marg bar Dictator” [down with dictator] earlier in the evening, but when they heard the motorcycles roar down their street they stopped.

February 12, 2010 The 22 of Bahman

No one wanted me to go out on the streets of Tehran today. My father instructed my husband not to let me go out. My mother-in-law made fun of my curiosity as a way to keep me from going. My husband dragged his feet – very frustrating really!  But eventually at 11:30 (which was way too late as far as I was concerned) my husband’s curiosity got the best of him and we went out towards Keshavarz Blvd from the Yousef Abad area. On our way towards the gatherings we met up with an older lady who was walking in our general direction. We started talking. Boy was she a fireball! She told us that she had been walking up and down the streets all morning. She said that the show the government put on this year was nothing like it was last year. She said that last year they were giving cookies and milk to participants, but that this year they really went all out to feed and pamper their supporters. She also let us know that she was scared to go too far out into the crowds. She said she was alone and all her kids were overseas. She said, “Heechkas neest mano jam koneh agar bezananam.” (there is no one to gather me up if they beat me). She asked if se could come along with us and we said she was very welcome. At some point her age came up. She said she was 77 years old! It was an honor to walk with her towards the 100s of government troops stationed in our small area!

As we got closer to the main street we met people coming the opposite way. Some people said that it was quiet and that nothing as going on. One woman told us that in Sadeghiyeh Square many Green Movement supporters had been staging a silent protest when the government troops and Basijis surrounded them and herded them onto buses and took them away. One woman reported that Karroubi’s son had been arrested.

We passed by a black chadori woman (with maghnaeh) and the older lady with us stopped to speak with her. This chadori woman just berated the government. The lady with us looked at her in surprise and said, “I assumed you were Hezbollahi with your chador!”  The chadori woman responded, “Mordeh shureh hameyeh Hezbollahiha ra bebarand!” (swearing at the Hezbollahis). As we were talking a number of motorcycles with Basijis passed by and looked intently at us. We agreed that it was dangerous to stand in a group and talk. So we all moved on. As we arrived at the main street it was just choked with security personnel of every stripe and ilk! At some places it was 3 and 4 people deep. Civilians were milling about, but everyone was tense. We would see young men, walking in 2s and 3s stopped randomly, searched and made to pull out their ID cards. Two young men called out to a buddy, “Natars!” as he walked by quickly. (Don’t be afraid.)  It was truly frightening.

At this point we were discussing whether to go toward Sadeghiyeh street where people had been beaten and picked up, or whether to go the opposite way and walk through the 100s of security personnel and head towards home as it did not seem there was a group to cleave to. The older lady told us she was frightened and that she would walk back up the street and make her way home. I felt responsible for her so we walked with her until she parted up the street and away from the security personnel to relative safety. Then we continued on our way.

These people were well armed and well clothed in protective gear. Even their shins and shoe tops were protected! No one had green on, but it was obvious that the people around us were Green. I had on green shoe laces and regretted it immediately. So we eventually decided not to go towards Sadeghiyeh. We walked the other way, through 100s of armed security personnel and eventually turned towards our house. Our bodies were wracked by tension.

That afternoon I checked rahesabz.net for news on the days events in the country. I read that 20 people were arrested in Shiraz. I read about events in Ahvaz, Esphahan, the north and other cities. I read that Mousavi’s wife, Zahra Rahnavard, had been beaten. I read that Karroubi’s son had indeed been arrested. I read many things. Thank goodness I did, because the next morning when I went back to the site to read the updates, it had been hacked by the Iran Cyber Army, who had left a nasty little note for potential readers! Ugh! They also listed another 5 sites they have hacked. Check it out. It’s very educational! But it’s also infuriating! I don’t think Iran should be allowed to operate on the net or in the world of satellite programming if they want to play dirty and prevent us from getting real news vs. mere propaganda. . . .

We want to ski tomorrow on the 28th of Safar, a significant death day. So we called information to see if the ski slopes were open. They assured us the slopes would be open tomorrow.

February 13, 2010 Better Luck Next Time!

We woke up at 6:00 am, got dressed, ate breakfast and drove out 2 hours to the slopes just to be told that at the last minute the authorities had decided to close the slopes for the mourning holiday. Talk about a waste of gas and other resources. Such a responsible decision I must say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

February 14, 2010 Ski Dizin!

Open today, finally!!! No Men and Womens’ ski slopes or rules like 19 years ago when I was there last. One fellow skier said, “So there’s hope for us then.”

February 16, 2010 Local Tehran Flavor

At a real estate office in Tehran a realtor called my dad Haji Agha. Another man sitting there exclaimed loudly, “Don’t call him Haji Agha! Haji Agha’s kill people; they do lots of other things. He’s a professor! Professors just teach people!”

Another man said, “I am willing to call myself a Christian these days, or a Zoroastrian.  But I am no longer willing to call myself a Shi’ite Muslim.” He told us his son is a reporter as well as his son’s wife. They fled Iran for Sweden a few days before Ashura.

A cab driver drove us home and on the way told us that he belonged to a Heya’at (a religious group).  The leader of their Heya’at announced to them that anyone believing even one word out of the mouths of the religious leaders of this country would be kicked out and barred from belonging to this particular Heya’at.

February 17, 2010 Returning Home

Stopped for a pee and snack break 30 km outside of Natanz. Anti-aircraft missiles started firing. We were caught in the middle of a live-fire exercise that lasted for 1/2 an hour at least! I sure hoped they wouldn’t over-shoot the range!

February 18, 2010 Shiraz News

I heard that there was not a big Green turnout on the 22d, however, a number of the protestors were chased down into Nemazi hospital and beaten very cruelly and ruthlessly before being carted off to who knows where!

People in my neighborhood shouted “Allah-u Akbar” on the 22d in support of the Greens!

February 21, 2010 Rounding up Everyone

Last night I read on rahesabz.net that the Intelligence Ministry was rounding up and interrogating people related to the 1000s excuted in 1367. I know two people whose husbands were among the murdered. I gave them each a copy of the article today. As I gave one woman the article I asked how her son was doing. She said he was fine, but she was not – she had just received a call that morning on her cell phone requiring her presence at the Shiraz Intelligence Ministry tomorrow. She was stressed and nervous. She thanked me for the article. Are they going to interrogate EVERYONE in the country before they are satisfied?

February 22, 2010 Thoughts

A friend had a horrible visit with her family in Isfahan. It seems they are very religious and do not believe what happened in the country this summer. As a result, my friend is having an almost impossible time being with them. Her university aged daughter no longer associates with the grandmother and aunts. They are so far apart in their thinking. It is wearing her down.

I have been thinking a lot about the past few months and the things I have seen and heard and read. Judgement Day, if you believe in that, is going to be hell.

From Iran today:

February 1, 2010 Haven’t Written for a LONG Time

It’s been a long time since I have written. Sometimes it just doesn’t seem worth it. Change will take its time. Cycles of life and governance move at their own pace. Can we puny little humans really do anything to change our situation – to change the pace of change? One thirty year-old woman I know said that she just wishes for “at least one year of freedom” in her life in Iran before she dies.

Sometimes while I am laying in bed right before I go to sleep or wake up, I feel horrible pangs of guilt and overwhelming sorrow – thinking about all of the innocent and young people being held, tortured and killed in our prisons. I read detailed accounts regularly. It is indeed overwhelming and depressing. I read the Amir Kabir university student publication (autnews.es) in Persian to get detailed information and names on events in the country. Sometimes I skip a day or two to relieve myself of the burden of knowing the truth. But I always go back to it to stay informed and in its midst I am once again swallowed up in pain and despair.

I went for a walk with a woman yesterday. When I asked her how she was, she responded that she is in a very fragile mental state. She said that the situation in the country is wearing her down daily. She tries to keep her spirits up and to be positive for her kids – but it saps all her energy. She has both a college aged and an elementary aged child.

A woman told me just recently that she is/was brought up in a religious family and that she really respects Imam Ali even more than the prophet Mohammad. However, when Jannati (the Friday prayer leader in Tehran) on Friday gloated over the execution of two young men (one ONLY 19) – who weren’t even involved in the post election unrest – and demanded more and mass executions to take place, citing that Imam Ali killed 70 people in one day ….. this lady was horrified. She said if Imam Ali killed people like this government is killing people, then she doesn’t want him either! A crisis in faith …. I am sure she is not alone.

Despite all the anger and sadness and despair here, people are moving forward in their lives. While people are NOT tuning out, and in fact are trying to be more aware than ever in case the whole thing blows, they are moving on with their lives. Many students are applying for schools outside the country; people are pushing forward with immigration applications. People who have no plans to leave are pursuing their goals anyway. A couple of female university students are pursuing research on topics that aim to educate people here on how Iranians are not so different from Westerners and that in fact we, the people, share much in common. One young lady is researching how the “West” or Christians teach their children about God and how those children express their ideas of God through poetry (and then she compares them to Muslim, Iranian children – and is finding many similarities). Another young lady is researching Western tales and finding Persian equivalents in the ‘similar tales, different lands’ spirit. The point is that these young women – one secular and the other VERY religious – want to build rapport with the people of the West. They want their countrymen and women to see that people are all alike – that we have much in common; that we are not so different from each other.

Friends are translating English language stories; uncensored pirate DVDs are found all over the city; underground bands plug on. Alcohol is served at most gatherings; music is heard most places; fashion is pushing the limits. Every time the Internet is blocked or slowed, new ways are found to counteract it. Every time BBC and VOA are cut off, new methods are found to get the news.  Parents teach kids about the Persian culture they value; the brain washing at school is challenged at home on a daily basis.

February 2, 2010 On a Roll Again

Anti-gum’t graffiti is popping up all over the place as the 22 of Bahman is drawing near. After Ashura the city cleaned up a lot of the graffiti on Chamran Street. As I was walking along the road today I saw fresh graffiti – Death to Kh.; Green 22 Bahmn (22 Bahmne Sabz); Long Live the Green Movement. Someone had scribbled below one of these statements (in response) “Heech Ghalati Nemikonid (you can’t do jack!)” This was in turn scribbled over in green. The cleaning people in our complex have to clean up political graffiti on a daily basis as the anniversary of the revolution draws near.

February 5, 2010 Arbaeen?

Many people were out a about today in town and outside of town, picnicking, partying and having a good time. I would not have know it was Arbaeen, the 40th day of Imam Hossein’s death, if it had not been for the two carloads of young men pulled over by the Gashteh Ershad (morality police) in front of us. I have no idea what they were doing, if anything (as we saw nothing untoward ourselves). The only thing I heard as we passed their car was, “Soma meedunid ke Arbaeeneh….” (You know that it is Arbaeen…. (a mourning holiday).

I have noticed in the past few days more and more people being pulled over for traffic violations in areas where there are normally NO police!!!!!!!!!!!!!

February 8, 2010 Show of Force

As I drove down Chamran Street in a cab today and saw huge billboards going up commemorating the 22 of Bahman. All along the median pictures of soldiers, killed in the war between Iran and Iraq, were being placed at regular intervals. Huge billboards sponsored by the Sepah (IRCG) were reminding people of the sacrifices made for the victory of the revolution. It was quite a show. There was nothing like this last year, or the year before, on the 22d! I mentioned casually to the driver that “They” were going to a lot of trouble this year. He responded, “Har kasebi tabligh lazem dareh!” (every business needs marketing). He mentioned that it was wrong to use the memory of the fallen soldiers (martyrs) to bolster Themselves.

On my way back home I sat in another cab. The driver was a student is a small town near here. He said that while students in his university are not very active politically, the students of the nearby city of Lar are. He told me that a few days ago a number of banks in Lar were set on fire.

A man mentioned that when he passed Cinema Sa’adi today at around 3:00 pm, between 2-300 motorcycles, with two security personnel on each and holding flags, were getting ready to drive around. He wasn’t sure where they were going – but it seemed like a show of force to him.

Another man asked me about the realities of living in the U.S. or other countries. More and more people are baling or thinking about it to at least give their kids a better future.

The graffiti in my building has moved beyond political attacks to personal attacks. But it is interesting to note that the Green writer keeps the comments political, while the pro-gum’t writer personally insults the Green writer in a way that shows he/she is not open to discussion. It is very low-brow, cutting and aggressive.

Some people are cancelling trips to Tehran during this unprecedented 5-day holiday for fear of potential violence on Thursday and the days after. Internet news sites warn of not going to hospitals if one is injured; of women Basijis being pulled in to confront women demonstrators; of plans to bring Basijis from other cities in Iran to line the streets of Tehran; of Basijis buying up all the green material around and writing pro-government slogans on them to take back the color green! Some people think nothing will happen on Thursday as the government has been so vicious these past few months. Others are bracing themselves for massive bloodshed. No one knows what is going to happen. It is a nervous time.

From Iran today:

January 9, 2010 What’s Happening?

The Internet is slow and sporadic EVERYDAY. BBC Persian and VOA are cut off all day except for before 9am when the jamming office workers are not at work yet it seems (at least for us). In some areas the jamming technology does not work. They keep threatening with harsher Internet laws. If they keep it up, breathing might be illegal soon!

Many people seem hopeless. Many are invigorated and hopeful. It is a difficult time.

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