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From Iran today, to Mr. Obama, on the passage of health care reform:

Dear mr president, my friend (my chosen president)

i congratulate you for passage of health care bill / thank you for a
tremendous hard work that you did. without your hardest work this was
not possible/ thank you, thank you.
(i am sorry i could not write you directly, so i am asking my friend
to send it to you)
you are the only president on the face of earth who is working hard to
keep your promises.
thank you again
we love you

From Iran today:

March 16, 2010 Shiraz is ALIVE!!!!

This is the BEST Chaharshanbeh Soori I have ever experienced! Our city was alive tonight with the sounds of music, laughter and fireworks! And even though it is illegal now to build bonfires on the roads, people were building fires in the joobes (open drains) and in the dirt on the sidewalks and jumping over them. Our neighborhood is still partying and it’s WAY past midnight. Girls and guys are dancing and mingling. The impromptu fireworks displays are beautiful!

Our evening started at 7 pm when the kids, hubs and I went out to our apartment complex field and started the fires and fireworks. All the complex kids followed us with their goodies and the evening festivities began! We had strict rules – no throwing firecrackers under peoples’ feet. We also had a first aid kit and a fire extinguisher handy. Everyone had fun. Lots of people joined us and we had an awesome display. Other people in the neighborhood had their own festivities. People were setting off fireworks from their roofs and balconies. From the hills we could see the city of Shiraz below. The fireworks lighting the sky were brilliant! Sounds of firecrackers and music came from all over the city.

At 9 pm we bid adieu and headed for a party we were invited to. The people in our complex were just warming up!  We drove all the way to X. Along the way we saw fire engines at the ready and plenty of security forces. But the robocops did not seem to be out – at least in our area. Fireworks were going off all around the security personnel. They just stood there – and laughed at particularly loud ones!

We reached the garden where we were invited and spent an evening with friends eating and drinking and jumping over yet more fires (and lighting even more fireworks). It was relaxing and enjoyable and great fun. People of every age were there. On the way to and from the party we saw many people celebrating on the sides of the roads. And some of the young people were sitting on their car doors as they drove down X, dancing to music along the way. Tonight, the people of Shiraz were having a GREAT time, despite all the warnings! It’s past 1 am and the neighborhood disco is still going! I am turning out the lights for now to sweet dreams.

From Iran today:

March 15, 2010 Warnings against celebrating the fire festivities

My son reported that at school a 25 year-old Basiji came and spoke with the kids about the dangers of celebrating Chaharshanbeh Soori – the fires and fireworks. He said the guy made the kids feel bad about celebrating. Another kid I spoke with said the same happened in his school. However, it seems many people are not paying attention to the warnings. We invited a school mate over the same day the kids had their talk and the school mate said he couldn’t come over because his school service (cab) driver was taking all the boys out to but fireworks! So much for towing the party line! Unless they figure out quickly how to get the cooperation of everyone, this gum’t has lost the war.

My sig other was at the store down the street when an old man told him that this gum’t had really messed this celebration up. He said that in the past Chaharshanbeh Soori was a fun but quiet celebration where people would get together and build bonfires in their neighborhoods, jump a bit and it was over. But NO the mullahs had to go and build a fireworks factory in Iran and ban bonfires! He blamed these guys for bringing all the fireworks and dangers upon themselves.

From Iran today:

March 14, 2010 Let me Explain

Chahar Shanbeh Soori takes place the Wednesday eve before the Iranian new year, or No Ruz. I don’t know how Zoroastrians celebrate it, but the rest of us Iranians usually get together with friends, party, light off firecrackers and light up numerous bonfires that we then proceed to jump over. When we jump over the fires we say, “Zardieh man az toh, sorkhieh toh az man.” (which means something like – all my yellowness (impurities) to you, and all your redness (clean, freshness) to me). It is symbolic of purifying oneself of the junk of the old year and entering the new year clean and pure.

In the past few years this particular celebration has gotten out of hand. The firecrackers are literally deafening. People get limbs burned and blown off. Houses catch fire (the usual where firecrackers are used). The atmosphere has also in the recent few years reflected the dissatisfaction and protests of the youth. About five years ago Chamran Blvd looked like a war zone. A police car was set on fire there and it was out of control. The very next year the authorities clamped down and made this ceremony illegal on main thoroughfares. We have had three years of tough laws and LOTS of security personnel out on the streets the days leading up to the ceremony.

This year is even tougher. I read on one website that a government official explained that their goal was to eliminate this ceremony from the Iranian scene within the next two years. See, it’s talk like that that gets them into trouble. This ceremony is a very old, cultural ceremony. When I was a kid we used to get together in our neighborhoods and jump over fires. It was fun – but not a big deal. We’d hear firecrackers. We had a great time. A few years ago they made it illegal to light fires on the asphalt – an attempt to eliminate the ceremony by making it impossible for people to light fires in their neighborhoods and do their thing. So, people moved out of the neighborhood and lit many more (and louder) firecrackers, because they weren’t allowed to light fires anymore. It is really twisted now frankly.

But the fact that government officials talk about the total elimination of this ceremony gets people all riled up. They see it not as a safety issue, but as yet another assault on their cultural heritage by this totalitarian pseudo-Islamic regime! Many people say, “We have one night of shadi (festivity) and this government wants to take it away from us.” I certainly understand the safety issues. I lived in the US when they went through a similar analysis and made free wheeling fireworks illegal – now one has to get a permit. But I think they did it in a much more reasonable manner. The government officials said they that while they did not want to eliminate the New Years tradition, they did want to make it safer. And so you have to get a permit to light certain types of fireworks there. Here, in Iran, on the other hand, they have stated that they want to eliminate the tradition completely as it isn’t Islamic.  Ayatollah Khamenei even went so far as to declare it Haraam (religiously unclean) this year. Well, frankly, that makes people resist.  Although Ayatollah Makarem-Shirazi turned around and declared that it was religiously ok for people to celebrate.

I have heard firecrackers go off every day and night now for the past week and a half. It is music to my ears.  Everyone I know plans on jumping over bonfires on Tuesday night. But the government is flexing it muscles. Just yesterday I was out with a friend at Afifabad (the “IN” place for young people to hang out these days.) There was a heavy police presence as usual. But somehow it felt different to me. I felt tension in the air. Then I heard sirens and saw two cop cars drive quickly down the street – one filled with young men and the other with women. They were telling people to get out of the way. A cabbie I spoke with later said that he had observed similar incidents lately. He said the government was picking up the youth and keeping them in prison until after Chaharshanbeh Soori to prevent them from celebrating. A short time later that night I saw Sepah officers and eventually military clothed personnel on the street. So I guess it wasn’t my imagination. It is tense this year – particularly after the summer of discontent we have had here! Nothing is calm. Nothing is normal. Tension fills the air.

From Iran today:

March 11, 2010 What do we do with all the graffiti?

Cities around Iran try to do a bit of spring cleaning and get their cities beautified in preparation for all the No Ruz travelers this time of year. Our cities really do put on a fresh face. It’s great. However, this year we have the problem of political graffiti. What to do about that? I’ve seen where they have attempted to remove it and have given up. Only the strong stone walls seem to be able to withstand the pressure hoses. Painting over them does not eliminate them. So, many attempts have been abandoned. Recently they have tried covering up the graffiti with murals. But you can’t do that with every wall – especially private walls. And then they only get the graffiti they can see from the cars. When I went for a walk the other day I saw lots of fresh graffiti – all at angles the cops can’t see when they are on the prowl. But it is fresh and it is there and the PEOPLE are NOT erasing them!

My sig other saw graffiti on a university bathroom stall. One said nasty things about AN’s mother and the other said, “Marg bar mah ke goftim marg bar shah!” (Death to us who said death to the shah).

From Iran today:

March 8, 2010 Chahar Shanbeh Soori is Getting Close – Let’s stamp it out!

I drove my parents to the airport today. They will be in the U.S. for over a month. Lucky them! They get to breathe freely for awhile!

On our way to the airport we drove along the Dry Riverbed Highway. Street cleaners were busy gathering broken branches, boxes and anything flammable and burning them along the river. My mom commented (something to the effect), “So, they are doing their darnedest to make sure no one burns bonfires this year!”

As I was waiting for my parents to take off I had the chance to talk with someone who lives in the Shaheh Cheragh (mosque) area. He said the other day the neighborhood Basijis came to his door with a calendar and flowers and something else as a friendly (PR) gesture from the local Basijis. Sheesh! As if ANYONE will EVER forget what they are REALLY all about. I asked this person if he would ever forget what had happened to the people at the hands of the Basijis this summer and he said, “No.”

They haven’t come around to the homes in my area – but then again I heard that our neighborhood was one of the only ones in Shiraz shouting Allah-u-Akbar on February 11! (22 of Bahman). I guess we are a lost cause.

From Iran today:

March 3, 2010 Not Much Going On, But A lot Going On

A second person I am personally aware of, who was imprisoned for 2 years around 1367, was summoned for questioning.  The two who were questioned were asked to fill in a lot of personal information on a form including who they regularly hang out with and what those persons’ views and beliefs are.  They were also asked to provide updated pictures. They were questioned by people beind a two-way mirror. Both thought that it seemed the gum’t is attempting to update their political dissident files. Since they take pictures of everyone in the protests, it seems they are updating records to be able to pick out the Green (anti-gum’t) Protestors.

One school principal relayed how tough it is on the teachers this year. He said that they get called in to the office for every slip of the tongue. They have been told to report families whose children speak “Green”. He also said that the schools get harassed for any music they play – but they still push ahead.

A preschool I am close to said that they have been instructed to speak about the 12th Imam (Mahdi) on Teachers’ Day at the end of the school year to the kids! The head there said, “What am I supposed to tell a 3 year old about the coming Mahdi!?” It seems Ahmadinejad and his group are trying to hasten the End Times and the coming of the Mahdi is a required event!

In the past 2 days three different people from 3 walks of life have asked me my religion. When I respond that until there is freedom of religion in Iran and all Iranians can freely express their beliefs without fear, I refuse to answer that question – these people have promptly told me that while they call themselves Muslim, they do not pray, fast or believe in heaven or hell at all. And then they continue their conversation with me. Theses three are 25, 35 and a bit older respectively – all children of the revolution.

One cab driver who signed up for an election-promise house and voted for the “correct” candidate told me that they have since been told that the apartment promised was promised illegally and that they would not be receiving an apartment after all. He said he has observed that some very well connected people have however, received apartments through this scheme although he has not.

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